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Sartorial est une interprétation contemporaine d'une Fougère classique; Les notes traditionnelles de chêne, la fève tonka et la lavande ont été cousues exquisement avec des bois, des effets métalliques et métalliques, du cuir, des feuilles violettes, du miel et des épices pour créer l'illusion parfaite de la salle de travail d'un tailleur. Le fil moderne traversant Sartorial est la cire d'abeille; En faisant écho aux blocs de cire, chaque fil est parcouru avant la couture.
Parfumeur: Bertrand Duchaufour
Notes de tête: bergamote, citron, galbanum, mandarine, petitgrain
Notes de coeur : muguet, sauge sclareee, the, ylang-ylang
Notes de fond : ambre liquide, cedre, mousse de chene, musc blanc, patchouli
A tailored scent - modern, yet classic.
Upfront - this is a complex, but balanced scent. From the literature, Penhaligons set out to create a fragrance to evoke an old Savile Row tailor's shop. But did they?
Sartorial opens with a lovely bright lavender/oakmoss with a touch of violets notes much like an old traditional fougere - but with a twist in the form of what I suppose are the listed "ozonics" and "metal effect", that are supposed to bring to the fore the scent of fabric on an old steam press. To my nose, I can get a hint of fabric, but the way I smell it is linen coming off the clothesline after drying in the sun on a hot summers day - a fresh clean scent. There is a hint of a dry notes (chalk, or dust?) that does not intrude. after about 20 minutes, the whole feel of the scent changes direction, as it were, and moves nicely into a warm spicy wood scent, and it is in this stage that the beeswax begins to emerge, a warm sweet scent rather like honey and vanilla, and while this is happening, the projection seems to change a well, and become much closer to the skin, warming as it does. The floral notes are still there, but subdued so that they do not get in the way. Again, after an hour or so, another change of direction - warm spicy woods come out, and one can smell the incense-like scent of myrrh. Here to me is where it shines, a scent that takes to you an old room, with sun-warmed wood floors and old leather chairs. The beeswax in still very much in evidence, and ties it all together.. When the myrrh and beeswax notes in this stage hit me, the first thing I thought of was Easter Mass, with the smells of wax candles mingling with the incense. Again, at the drydown it wears close, but not as close say as some Hermes scents do. Still a decent projection.. A truly different, but wonderful scent.
On me, longevity was excellent at 10 hours from 4 sprays. Even the next morning there were slight hints - and here is where I did get a suprise - Sunlight soap from the 1950's, a staple chez nous, now how did that get in there?
All in all, if you have ever worn a bespoke suit, you'll know how it feels, a suit that fits and drapes so well, it never binds, or pulls , or bothers in anyway, just feeling like a second skin - it just fits and works. This is where Penhaligons has succeeded, Sartorial wears just like that suit. Well made, never flashy, but oh, so wonderful to wear.
If Fleming was alive today, perhaps Sartorial would be the new scent for James Bond.
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